CAPRI: Jewel of an Island
Why go on holiday to Capri?
Capri is a pocket-sized jewel in the Bay of Naples. Although inundated by tourists in summer, Capri retains an air of mystery. With picturesque squares, winding streets and breathtaking scenery, it's easy to fall in love with the island.
It was once a playground for Europe's idle rich. Ideal as a day trip from Naples or Sorrento, you could easily spend longer exploring its famous caves, or swimming below the dramatic cliffs.
You will understand why the Roman emperors built their pleasure palaces here.
How much does it cost?
Capri is not designed for the package tourist, though mini breaks are available. Hotels are not cheap and heavily booked during the summer - expect to pay at least £40 a night. You can take a direct flight to Naples, from around £150 if you shop around, and a short ferry or hydrofoil from there. Flight costs vary according to season.
When should I go?
Capri is at its best in spring (April-May) and autumn (October-November), and is very busy during the summer months. Avoid August, the time that most Italians take their vacations.
What should I do when I'm there?
Boating, diving and swimming are a natural on Capri. There is a number of scuba diving companies on the island. You can also hire canoes, motorised dinghies and Hobie Cats. Waterskiing is also popular.
For something different try one of the submarine voyages. There are many places to swim around the island but the best areas can only be reached on foot or by boat. Beaches are rocky so take rubber soled shoes for comfort.
Take the chairlift to the top of Monte Solaro for the best view across the Bay of Naples and beyond.
Why are there two Capris?
First-time visitors are confused by the existence of two Capri villages: Capri and Anacapri. They are bitterly competitive, the result of an ancient feud between their inhabitants. Both are charming, with narrow, winding lanes and whitewashed villas.
Capri Town is on top of the hill, reached by long steps, steep alleys or funicular tram. In Capri Town visit the Gardens of Augustus (Giardini di Augusto) and the 14th-century Carthusian monastery.
Anacapri, the smaller of the two, is very crowded and buzzy, less expensive and was immortalised in the book The Story of San Michele.
What about that gorgeous grotto?
Capri's tourist trade is built around the famous Blue Grotto, one of more than a dozen such grottoes that dot its craggy coastline. The grotto, which has been visited since Roman times, takes its name from the magical blue of the water.
Boat excursions leave from Marina Grande and cost about £12. This includes the price of a rowing boat tour inside the grotto - some operators charge two prices, one for the trip to the grotto, one to row inside. You can also take a bus to the grotto from the village of Anacapri.
Swimming is allowed before 9am and after 5pm - make sure you check where it's safe to swim as there can be weird tides and currents.
What about ancient pleasure palaces?
Capri has been inhabited since ancient times. Various Roman emperors lived here and built various temples and villas, remnants of which are everywhere, but Villa Jovis (the residence of Emperor Tiberius) is the best-preserved.
Salto di Tiberio is a cliff from which the emperor had his least-favourite people thrown into the sea.
There are many stories of Tiberius and Nero's debaucheries on the island. Ruminate on them whilst staring out to sea on the same spot as the two evil Caesars.
Where's good for nightlife?
Both Capri and Anacapri have many little bars, the main difference being that in Capri the prices are bigger - but then so are the views.
Terraces, gelato parlours and the like abound, people wander from outdoor restaurant to outdoor bar beautifully groomed, watching each other like exotic birds.
Remember that prices often double, or triple depending upon whether you are standing up, sitting down, or sitting on the terrace.
What's the food like?
Like the rest of Italy, the food is glorious.
Expect great antipasto, stuffed peppers, fried courgette flowers, seafood by the bucketful - including sea urchins eggs, squid, marinaded anchovies, fresh sea fish cooked on griddle pans, plain or with/in tomato based sauces.
Make sure you wash your meal down with Italian whites - try a Vernacia or a Verdicchio both crisp, robust and delicious.
Follow with a coffee and sweet, sickly but lovely Amaretto liquer.
What should I buy?
Embroidered linens - tablecloths, napkins, baby bibs and teacloths are good. Liquor, wines and foodstuffs are all lovely but probably best bought on the mainland during your trip back as Capri is rather pricey.
What is there for children to do?
Children will be welcomed everywhere in Italy, but Capri does not have any especially child-friendly attractions. However, your kids can eat in restaurants with you and sit on bar terraces.
Tourist office
Italian State Tourist Board, 1 Princes Street, London W1B 2AY. Tel. 020 7408 1254
Capri
Did you know?
When the Roman Emperor Tiberius was displeased with someone, he had them thrown off a cliff into the sea.
Language
Italian
Visas
UK citizens do not require a visa, but should carry their passport.
Getting there
Direct scheduled flights to Naples and then regular ferries and hydrofoils between Naples and Capri island.
Flying time from London
Two hours
Getting around
The best way is on foot. The bus service is good and cheap. A funicular railway links the ferry terminal at Marina Grande with Capri. Open-topped taxis are fun but expensive.
Currency
Euro
Costs
Small beer £2.50, roll of camera film £3.50, moderate restaurant meal £15, taxi journey of four miles £10, litre of petrol 65p. All prices may vary.
Weather
April to June and September to October are the best times to go, when the weather is good, prices are low and there are fewer tourists. Late July and August is very hot, prices rise and Italy teems with holidaymakers. Average temperatures: summer 70-85F/20-28C, winter 50-65F/12-16C
Time difference
One hour ahead of GMT.
International dialling code from the UK
00 39 06
Voltage
220V 50Hz, but some places still use the old 125V system - check with your hotel or landlord.
Opening hours
Shops open early, 8am, shut at 1pm for a long lunch and then open again at 3-4pm till 7-8 in the evening. Banks open 8.30am-1.30pm and 2.45-4.30 Mon-Fri.
Health - Before you go
You don't need any vaccinations to visit Italy. The UK also has a reciprocal agreement with Italy regarding healthcare. To take advantage of this you will need to get an E111 form at a post office and make sure you understand how to access this healthcare when away.
Health - When you are there
There is a new law saying that all foreigners have the same right as Italians to emergency healthcare, plus taking your EHIC form this means that you have good access to care. But as many Italian public hospitals are underfunded you may well prefer to take out travel insurance so you can get into a private clinic.
Warnings
Be careful when swimming at the Blue Grotto. Strong tidal conditions can make it extremely dangerous.
Emergency
Police 113. British Embassy: Via XX Settembre 80a, Roma. Tel: 482 54 41.
Customs
Siestas are the norm so expect shops to shut between 1pm and 4pm. You may find that people look at each other a lot more than they do in the UK, both men and women. This is normal, Italians take a lot of trouble to look good, they expect it from others and like to admire the results of all that hard grooming. Men will flirt - be polite, if they're hassling you be firm, otherwise enjoy it.
Pets
Italy is a qualifying country for the Pet Travel Scheme, however this does not mean that you can put the lead on Fido and take him on the plane. There are stringent vet checks, requirements and documentation to fulfil before taking a pet on holiday. Check with your vet.
Tipping
This is not expected in restaurants as you pay a "coperto" or cover price that usually includes bread, olive oil and water.
Tourist office
Italian State Tourist Board, 1 Princes St, London W1B 2AY. Tel: 0207 408 1254
Reviews for : Capri
My husband and I stayed in the Carlton Hotel in Sorrento in March. Sorrento is an excellent place to visit with so much to see and do. The Amalfi coast has breathtaking scenery and, of course, Pompeii and Herculaneum are fascinating.
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It was dark when we reached our hotel, so in the morning we were stunned when we threw open our wooden shutters and stepped out onto a balcony with a stupendous view of the Bay of Naples, a hazy Mount Vesuvius in the distance.
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What does the name Capri conjure up for you? Is it the sweet, homely face of Gracie Fields, seagull-voiced working-class heroine, who retired to the island after the war, sparing we baby-boomers a great deal of auditory grief?
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The air echoes to cries of 'Ciao!' Police in white pith helmets hold back the crowd and the coffee drinkers put down their cups and rise to their feet.
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My sister Kathy and I visited by boat from our base at Sorrento. From the ferry port we took the funicular up to Capri Town and had coffee in the attractive main square.
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