The band, Quinteto de Deleayo Marsalis, played their hearts out. One song described their city's loss after Hurricane Katrina and the audience of locals and tourists responded with instinctive sympathy. It was a moving moment, swept away by the joyous big band sound of the next tune.

Somehow in Estoril, a gorgeous coastal resort about an hour out of Lisbon, it is impossible to feel down for too long. The warmth, the ambience and the nearby sea are enough to revive anyone's spirits.

So is a stay at the five-star Hotel Cascais Mirage, overlooking the beaches and gently moving Atlantic Ocean. It's ideally situated for Estoril's beaches, the town, nearby resort Cascais and the hillside town of Sintra, where the Portuguese royalty used to head when the coast and capital got too hot.

These resorts are quieter than the Algarve and the beaches aren't as famous - or crowded - but they're so close to Lisbon that they're ideal for a long or short break.

You can enjoy the buzz of the capital, get some great bathing, walk in superb forests and explore historical castles on one visit.

We didn't get to Lisbon except for a drive through on the way to the airport but it's eminently possible as it's only an hour away by car or train.

What we did get to do on our first night was explore a bit of Estoril town, have a superb prawn and fish dinner at a lovely restaurant in neighbouring Cascais and wander along the cobbled streets.

The vibe is relaxed, there are a number of pubs to choose - including one British-style establishment - and the locals start their evenings at about 8pm. Nowhere near as late as the Spanish but a fairly relaxed vibe nonetheless.

We were there for the annual Jazz Festival (from July 12 to 15), but spent most of our time exploring the area - including a visit to the Cabo da Roca, the western-most point of the European continent.

It's wonderfully situated, with a glorious view over the seas. Our guide Anabela told us it's on exactly the same latitude as New York, so we strained our eyes and imagined we could see the outline of the Statue of Liberty on the very far horizon. Again, the world seemed rather smaller.

Heading inland from the Cabo da Roca we arrived via the gorgeous forests of Sintra National Park in the alluring little town of Sintra.

Steeped in history, the area was settled by the Romans in the 4th Century AD and because of its situation, strategic positioning and cool forests, has been popular ever since.

As it was one of the hottest days of the year, the trip to the National Palace in the town centre became one of endurance. However, nothing could detract from the sheer joy of seeing the Manueline style - named after a monarch, and a mad mix of Gothic, Renaissance and a touch of Baroque - on display.

There was no rest for the wicked and we headed on to the Quinta da Regaleira. The brainchild of owner Antonio Augusto Carvalho Monteiro (1848-1920) and scenographer-architect Luigi Manini, it's an amazing and mad-looking building with superb grounds, secret tunnels, huge statues and glaring gargoyles.

There's so much more to see in Sintra - including the Moorish Castle, bits of which can still be seen on the top of the hill, and the eccentric Pena Palace with its glorious grounds, Romantic/Bavarian influences and brightly coloured walls.

However lunch beckoned. Afterwards we tried out a choice of desserts made out of egg yolk and sugar. They were created by nuns in the 18th century, as they had left-over yolks after using egg whites as starch to iron with.

Some include rice and cinnamon and they are all extremely sweet and rich, with rather saucy names like papos de anjoy (angel's breasts).

No visit to Sintra is complete without trying its traditional cake. Called Queijada's, they're made of fresh cheese, eggs, sugar, flour and cinnamon and have been baked in the town since the 13th century.

Aside from the Jazz Festival, Estoril was also hosting its 43rd annual Craft Fair. There were a variety of eats and drinks on offer, surrounded by dozens of small huts where craftspeople touted their wares including superb pottery and handicrafts . Again the atmosphere was laid-back and relaxed and the night was warm and clear. In fact, there was even something magical about the whole fair - lit by fairy lights and lanterns.

The next morning, we headed down to the Cascais Marina for a boat trip across the bay towards Lisbon. With glorious weather again, it was a great way to see the various inlets, bays, beaches and fortresses along the coastline towards the capital. Every beach was full of tanned fun-lovers, swimming, pottering and playing ball games.

As we drew ever nearer to the seven hills of Lisbon and its huge suspension bridge, Anabela told us the waters had changed from the Atlantic Ocean to the Tagus River which empties into the ocean about 10km from the capital.

We were passed by two container ships in the busy shipping passage, guided by local pilots and beacons on their way into the harbour.

But it was time to head back for a superb meal at the hotel and a port-tasting session. Associated mainly with the port producing areas of Porto in the North, it's an important drink and is enjoyed as both an aperitivo and digestivo. I was so enthralled I bought a bottle of white port to enjoy as an aperitivo.

During our trip we'd enjoyed superb prawns, lovely fish and a huge skewer of meats with vegetables, served with a enticing plate of tropical fruits. While there are the odd greasy spoons and the ubiquitous McDonald's around, most restaurants serve freshly-made dishes at reasonable prices.

So foodies and wine lovers are well catered for. But so are beachgoers and those who like a bit of sporty action - there are six golf courses in the Estoril, Sintra and Cascais area and a brilliant walkway/cycle path for miles along the coast. You can even pick up a free bike from a couple of points in Cascais and set off towards Cabo da Roca.

Windsurfers usually head to Guincho beach, sailors to Cascais Marina and bodyboarders to Praia Grande.

We didn't have time to do all that we wanted to do, but it was a taster to a superb area, only three and a half hours away from London. I for one will be heading back to spend more time exploring, relaxing and swimming in the refreshing Atlantic waters.