A holiday with the Family
Come to the capital of Sicily in search of 'Godfather' images and you'll be in for a surprise. For this is no dusty, rock-strewn battleground of grizzled gangsters.
Sitting at a cafe in the Tribunali quarter of Palermo I found myself overwhelmed by the flurry of traffic, the grandeur of the baroque architecture and noise of street stalls selling spices, fresh fish and souvenir puppets of medieval knights.
The Normans built much of old Palermo and the Spanish ruled it for many years. As a result, this city is much grander than I had imagined.
It's also the noisiest capital in Europe. Buzzing motor scooters tear past and police sirens rend the air.
Traders in the old Arab market of Vucciria sing as they chop up eels, and just in front of me passes yet another wedding party for the bride to pose, laughing, amid the 20 life-sized statues of gods and heroes that flank the famous Fontana Pretoria.
Piazza Bellini, where I'm sitting, is one of the most popular squares in Palermo, and visiting its fountain is a must for Sicilian couples who queue up to have their wedding photos taken here.
The fountain, and the church of Santa Caterina behind it, date back to the 16th century, a time when Palermo was a hugely prosperous city, and Sicily an independent kingdom.
Looking at the profusion of Renaissance and Baroque architecture, you could almost be forgiven for thinking you were in Rome.
Today, Palermo is a bit ragged at the edges - not every facade has been fully restored and the pavements are frequently cracked, but the Palermitans who bustle through this brash city know how to have fun.
Their cooking, in particular, is renowned throughout Italy. Lunch, known as pranzo, is a very big event.
I have it in mind to wander up and find a restaurant in Piazza Giuseppe Verdi but I know that wherever I eat, there'll be a five-course meal ahead of me.
Travel guide: Sicily