New York City is the epitome of the urban metropolis: fast, exciting, overcrowded, brash, electric, alive. The city wraps visitors in a whirlwind of energy — so much to see, so much to explore, so much to do.

Few fail to be seduced by the tempo of life here; expect to return home elated but exhausted, muttering the local mantra - "New York, New York: a city so good, they named it twice".

With airlines vying for supremacy on the key London to New York route, bargains are plentiful. City breaks costs from about £300 for two nights.

Flights are often available from under £200, but you'll be lucky if you find a hotel room in Manhattan for less than £70 a night unless you're staying in a hostel.

July and August are so hot, humid, sticky (up to 30C/84F) and crowded with tourists, that the locals leave town every weekend.

Come in May or June instead, when you can still take advantage of the city's outdoor entertainment but the temperatures are a cooler 15-25C (59-77F), the days bright and breezy.

Early autumn has similar temperatures and the madness of the city's Hallowe'en Parade; pre-Christmas can be cold, around freezing, but is wonderful for a festive shopping spree.

It would take a lifetime and then some to experience everything New York has to offer.

Most first-time visitors start with a spot of shopping, trips to the Empire State Building, a Broadway play near the neon dazzle of Times Square, then a few well-earned drinks in one of the city's many clubs and bars.

One of the best sightseeing tours is free: on foot. It starts whenever, and is called "wandering around until you spot something interesting" - which in Manhattan takes about a minute.

The second-best tour is on the roundtrip ferry to Staten Island, complete with spectacular views of Ellis Island, the Statue of Liberty and the New York skyline.

Specatacular views can also be enjoyed from the Top of the Rock Observation Deck on the 70th floor of the Rockefeller Centre, the city's newest attraction. Tickets cost around £8 for adults and £5 for kids.

Museums and art galleries are thick on the ground. The most popular are the Museum of Natural History, the MOMA (Museum of Modern Art), the Met (Metropolitan Museum of Art), the Whitney Museum of American Art, and the architecturally splendid Guggenheim.

A lovely alternative is The Cloisters, a monastery-like building perched on a hill at the very northern tip of Manhattan, which houses the Met's collection of medieval frescoes, tapestries and paintings.

It's hard to escape the bustle of the city, even in the huge rambling woods, meadows and gardens of Central Park.

Packed with joggers, rollerbladers, musicians and sunbathers, the park is great for people-watching and free summer evening concerts.

Quieter options include the enchanting Brooklyn Botanic Garden and New York Botanical Garden, while the path along the Hudson River below 14th Street is filled with dog walkers and seekers of cool breezes at all hours on hot summer nights.

Where to start? Any evening might find national and international ballet, opera, jazz and classical music at Lincoln Center; and theatre both on and off-Broadway.

You'll find funky bars in the East Village; fashionista bars around SoHo; mega-clubs around the old meatpacking district; gay clubs in Chelsea and the West Village; and cigar lounges on the Upper East Side.

Megaplex cinemas are on the Upper West Side and in Times Square.

But that's a mere taster; your best bet is to buy Time Out or pick up the free New York Press or Village Voice for citywide listings.

There's something to eat here on every block, catering to every ethnic taste. The only reason that the city can support such a huge number and variety of restaurants, cafes and street stalls is that New Yorkers seldom eat at home.

Consequently the supermarkets are pretty dire, though speciality delis selling pre-cooked meals, exotic fruit, breads and cheese are wonderful.

Brunch is the way most New Yorkers like to spend their Sunday afternoons. Tips: buy bagels for breakfast from the street vendors, just like the locals. Don't go to Little Italy for Italian food; these days it's just for tourists.

Of the department stores, Macy's is the largest, Barney's the most exclusive and Bloomingdale's a New York institution.

Upper Madison is where to find high fashion and upmarket boutiques; sportswear, streetwear and sneakers dominate Lafayette and Broadway just north and south of Houston.

SoHo is now rather posh, with NoLITa to the east more likely to be home to up-and-coming designers. The flea market on Sixth Avenue and the crowded streets of Chinatown are great for browsing.

Kids can make their own masterpieces at the Children's Museum of the Arts, or develop green thumbs without paint at the Children's Adventure Garden in the New York Botanical Garden or the Children's Garden in Brooklyn.

Sony Wonder lures mini-consumers with a hands-on Technology Lab, while the famous FAO Schwarz toy store will make grown-ups either feel like kids themselves, or exhausted.

Tire them out at Chelsea Piers, a giant sports centre with outdoor skating rink, golf, gymnasium - even a mini-rock climbing wall designed with children in mind.

New York Convention and Visitors Bureau, Nottcutt House, 36 Southwark Bridge Road, London SE1 9EU. Tel 020 7202 6368.

New York was originally named New Amsterdam by its Dutch settlers.

English

All British passport holders, including children, travelling to the USA under the visa waiver programme will need their own machine-readable passports (MRP). Anyone without an MRP, including children who are currently on a parent's passport, will need a visa to travel to the USA.

There are many scheduled flights from the UK to New York. Most international flights land at JFK International or at Newark, just across the Hudson river in New Jersey. The other airport is La Guardia.

7-8 hours

There's no point in renting a car in New York as parking is a nightmare; besides, the best way to see compact Manhattan is on foot. The MTA buses and subways are cheap and have the city well-covered 24 hours a day; note you need exact change, a Metrocard or a token for the bus. Taxis are reasonably priced and part of the city's landscape.

US dollars

Bottle of beer £1 from a bodega (corner shop), £2-£3 in a bar; roll of film £3-£4; moderate meal £10-£15 per head; litre of petrol 30p; four-mile taxi ride £6. But these prices can only provide a rough guide and things can vary considerably.

New York has very distinct seasons. Winter can be bitterly cold, with lows in January of -3C, that's 26F, seeming colder with windchill. Snow from December-March is common. July and August are hot and often unbearably humid, with highs of 30C (84F). Late spring and early fall (autumn) are usually lovely, between 15-23C (59-73F).

Five hours behind GMT

00 1, then Manhattan 212 or 646; or Brooklyn, The Bronx and Queens 718.

110-115V, 60Hz AC. Outlets may be suited to flat two or three-pin plugs; transformers and plug adaptors are necessary for European appliances

New York is a true 24-hour city. Banks open from 9am-3:30pm but shop hours really depend on the day and neighbourhood; large bookshops, video stores and boutiques may be open until midnight, especially around the East Village. Many restaurants only come into their own at 2 or 3am; bars don't shut until 4am; and clubs often run on into morning.

No jabs necessary. Take out comprehensive travel insurance as healthcare costs are huge.

New York University Medical Center is an urgent-care clinic for minor injury and illness; 24-hour accident and emergency units can be found at Bellevue Medical Center, Lenox Hill Hospital and New York Hospital. Take your credit card as you may need to pay up-front.

Despite the frightening scare stories, New York is a far safer place than it was 10 years ago. Though there are still plenty of loonies and drug dealers, the streets are so busy 24 hours a day you're unlikely to be at risk. Take the same precautions you would in any city, and don't go to Central Park alone at night or in the early morning.

The emergency number is 911. British Consulate: 845 Third Avenue, Manhattan, NY10022, Tel. (212) 745-0202

In New York you can enter the smartest restaurants in the scruffiest clothes and they will seat you in the misguided belief that you're a rock star, video director or new media millionaire. If you want to fit in, black is de rigueur, coffee in the morning mandatory, and disdain for everywhere else almost an entry requirement.

You can take your pets to the US under the PETS travel scheme but it's not really suited to short breaks. It takes substantial organisation and several months to approve. Talk to your vet for further details.

Absolutely, and on everything. The average is 15%-20%; if you forget, they'll remind you. Remember to tip the bar staff too.

New York Convention and Visitors Bureau, Nottcutt House, 36 Southwark Bridge Road, London SE1 9EU. Tel 020 7202 6368